Car Window Tinting in Sydney, Fitted In-House

What window tint does for you and your car

Tint gets bought for the look, but it earns its keep on a hot afternoon. A car parked in the sun turns into an oven because sunlight passes through the glass and heats everything inside. A good film stops a large share of that energy at the window, before it reaches the seats and the dash.

• Less heat in the cabin. Ceramic film rejects infrared, the part of sunlight you feel as warmth on your skin. The car heats up more slowly and the air conditioning catches up sooner.

• UV kept off you and the interior. Side glass lets through more ultraviolet than most people expect. Film blocks almost all of it, which protects your arms and face and slows fading and cracking on the dash and seats.

• Less glare. Low sun in the morning and late afternoon, wet roads and bright headlights are all easier on the eyes.

• Privacy. Bags, laptops and tools on the back seat are harder to see from the footpath.

• A tidier look. Even, edge-to-edge film makes a car look finished, and it hides worn interior trim from outside.

Here's what our ceramic film typically does at 35% VLT, the shade we fit most often on front side windows:

The three car window tinting films we fit

We don't stock cheap dyed film, and we don't fit metallised film that can upset phone and GPS signal. Every grade we fit is ceramic-based, has no metal, carries a scratch-resistant hardcoat and won't turn purple. The difference between them is how much infrared heat they stop, and how they look.

Carbon ceramic (IR50)

The entry point of the range, and still a big step up from no tint. Carbon gives a rich matte black that never fades, and the ceramic content adds real heat rejection. Read more about carbon ceramic window tint.

Ceramic (IR70)

The film most of our customers end up choosing. It stops a lot more infrared than carbon ceramic, keeps a neutral tone and leaves every signal alone. Our ceramic window tinting page covers it in detail.

Nano ceramic (IR92)

Our top grade. Extremely fine ceramic particles give the clearest view and the most heat rejection, even at a light shade. See nano ceramic window tint for who it's worth it for.

If you're weighing up a carbon film against a ceramic one, our guide on ceramic vs carbon tint sets the two side by side.

Choosing a shade for each window

Film grade decides how much heat you stop. Shade decides how dark the glass looks and how much you can see out at night. You don't have to use one shade all round, and most people don't.

In NSW the front side windows must let through at least 35% of light, and the windows behind the driver at least 20% when the car has a mirror on each side. The windscreen can only take a strip across the top. The limit counts the glass and film together, which is why we measure your glass first. The legal table further down this page shows every window.

Front doors

These are the windows you look through at mirrors, kerbs and pedestrians. Most drivers go to the legal limit. If you do a lot of night driving or wear glasses, a slightly lighter shade in a higher grade keeps the view crisp without giving up much heat rejection.

Back doors and the rear screen

This is where privacy lives. Families often go to the rear limit so children in car seats sit out of direct sun. Before going darker, think about reversing at night: a very dark rear screen makes the mirror harder to use, even with a camera.

Cars with factory privacy glass

Many SUVs and wagons leave the factory with dark rear glass. Because the law counts glass and film together, those windows may only need a light film, or none, to match the front. We meter each one and tell you what's possible.

For a visual of how each shade looks from inside and out, read our guide to window tint percentages. For every rule, including older cars and work vehicles, see our guide to NSW window tint laws.

Car window tinting in our bay: drop-off to pick-up

You'll see our four-step summary lower on the page. Here is what happens to your car in between, so you know why the job takes the time it does.

1. Check the glass

   We look over every window for chips, old film, failing glue and damaged demister lines, and meter the factory glass. If something will affect the result, you hear about it before we start.

2. Cut the film by plotter

   Film is cut by machine from a pattern for your make and model. The edges match the glass and sit right up to the seals, and no blade ever touches your glass or rubbers.

3. Deep-clean and fit

   Glass is cleaned inside and out in a clean indoor bay, because a speck of dust under film stays there. The film goes on the inside face of the glass and is squeegeed out from the centre.

   

4. Shape the rear screen

   Rear screens curve in two directions, so the film is heat-formed to the glass before it's fitted. That's what lets it lie flat with no fingers or creases at the edges.

5. Inspect and hand back

   Every window is checked in good light before you collect the car. We go through aftercare with you, send the notes afterwards, and check in a week later.

Removing old or purple tint

Old dyed film that has bubbled or turned purple has to come off first. We peel it, then take the glue off the glass. On the rear screen we work around the demister lines so they keep working. Removal adds time, so tell us about old tint when you book.

Why we don't tint in driveways

Mobile tinting sounds handy, but wind, dust and direct sun are the main causes of specks, lifting edges and contamination under film. Every car we tint is done indoors, in a bay kept clean for film work.

Looking after new tint

Fresh film sits on a thin layer of water that takes a while to dry out. Until it does, the film can shift if the window moves. Look after it for the first week and it will look the same years from now.

1. Keep the windows up for two days. Leave them up longer if the weather is cold or wet, because the film cures more slowly.

2. Leave the haze alone. Small water pockets or a slight milky look in the first days are normal and dry out on their own. Don't press them out.

3. Leave the inside of the glass alone until the haze has gone. Then clean it with a soft microfibre cloth and plain water or an ammonia-free glass cleaner.

4. Mind the edges. Don't pick at a corner, and avoid suction mounts and stickers on tinted glass.

5. Watch seatbelt buckles. A buckle that swings into the glass every time it retracts will mark any film over the years.

Want the day-by-day version? Our guide on how long window tint takes to cure goes through it.

What decides the cost of car window tinting

We don't publish a price list for tint, because two cars that look similar can be very different jobs. Instead, we quote your make and model in writing. These are the things that move the number:

• How many windows. A two-door coupe and a seven-seat SUV with quarter glass are different amounts of film and time.

• The shape of the glass. Steeply curved rear screens and big wraparound windows take longer to heat-form and fit.

• The film grade. Carbon ceramic, ceramic and nano ceramic are priced differently because they're different films.

• Old tint removal. Stripping film and glue, especially from a rear screen with demister lines, adds labour.

• Extras. A windscreen strip or the extra windows on a van are quoted on top.

The quote is fixed once it's written. There's no charge for it, and nothing gets added on the day. We take cash, credit and debit cards, AMEX and Afterpay at both workshops. Ask for a written quote with your make, model and the grade you're leaning towards.

How long tint lasts, and the warranty behind it

Cheap dyed film fades, bubbles and turns purple because its dyes break down in the sun. The films we fit don't rely on dye for their colour, so that failure doesn't happen to them. The hardcoat on the inside face also stands up to everyday cleaning and the odd brush from a bag or a seatbelt.

That's why we put a lifetime warranty on window tint. If our film bubbles, peels or turns purple, we redo it. The warranty is in writing and comes with your invoice.

Signs your current tint is due for replacement

• A purple or brown cast instead of a neutral grey

• Bubbles or blisters, especially on the rear screen

• Edges lifting or peeling back from the seals

• A hazy or distorted view that makes night driving harder

Why Sydney drivers book their tint with us

Tinting Xperts started in 2016 with one bay and a simple rule: if it isn't right, it doesn't leave. Founder Mohammad Habboushi still fits cars on the floor most days, alongside a team of 30+ fitters. Most of our work comes from repeat customers and people they've sent our way.

We're open Monday to Saturday at our Revesby workshop on Milperra Road and our Condell Park workshop on Eldridge Road. Drivers come from Bankstown, Padstow, Panania, Milperra, Yagoona, Greenacre, Liverpool and right across Sydney. Drop the car in the morning and most of the time you'll drive it home the same day.

Because tint, paint protection and coatings are all done under one roof, many customers book them together. A new car often gets tint and film on the front at the same visit, on one invoice.

Our service

Paint Protection Film

Paint protection film is a clear, self-healing urethane layer fitted over your paint. It takes the stone chips, grit and scuffs that would mark the panels. We correct the paint, then fit gloss, matte or colour film, from partial front to full body, at Revesby and Condell Park.